words // Darren Griffin
The best fashion designers aren’t typically those classically trained to be one. Rei Kawakubo created COMME des GARÇONS back in 1969 without any technical training or educational doctrine backing her efforts. Instead, she studied art and literature at Keio University in Minato, Tokyo, largely known as the eldest institute of higher learning in Japan.
From there, Kawakubo open her first CDG store in 1975 in Tokyo beginning with just womenswear, later adding men’s in 1978. Her brand soared, heralded for its avant-garde aesthetic that famously debuted on the runway during a Paris Fashion show in 1981. Decades later in 2004, after many CDG storefronts already littered the globe, Kawakubo created Dover Street Market – a retail haven for her own designs and complimentary brands first located on Dover Street in Mayfair, London.
Kawakubo’s thriving multi-million dollar brand and staggering global retail presence begin to dabble in limited edition sneaker collaborations in the late 2000’s. Working with Nike, Converse and few others, Rei’s masterful eye for design and her ability to see what most couldn’t, positioned her among the most sought after collaborators in sneaker culture.
Today, on International Womens Day, we highlight her best COMME des GARÇONS and Dover Street Market collaborations to date.
Dover Street Market x Nike Air Force 1 Low – Release Date: July 2012
Released in accordance with the 2012 Olympics and the Air Force 1’s 30th anniversary, this re-purposing of the famed Bruce Kilgore design was one of many Kawakubo and her team would master.
Supreme x COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT Vans – Release Date: March 2012
Consisting of collaborative Sk8-Hi and Era renderings, CDG helmed this release with streetwear institution Supreme through unique tailoring courtesy of vertical and horizontal striping typically seen on both men’s and women’s shirting. Juxtaposed alongside premium materials and traditional skate silhouettes, Kawakubo had joined opposing cultures with this multifaceted release.
Supreme x COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT x Vans – Release Date: June 2013
Now working annually, the trio would again forge in 2013 with the backing of CDG’s SHIRT label. This time opting for the Half Cab and Era, stripes, polka dots, and digi-camo unified atop the skate styles for foundational aesthetic credited largely to Kawakubo.
COMME des GARÇONS PLAY x Converse Chuck Taylor All Star – Release Date: Summer 2013
Untenability her brand’s most commercial contribution to sneaker culture is the CDG PLAY x Converse Chuck Taylor All Star from 2013. Utilizing her famed heart logo across the canvas constructed All-American shoe, the look became a global hit for men and women alike. Both the Hi and Low iterations were a staple four years ago and still to this day; it was the perfect matrimony of minimalism and luxury.
BLACK COMME des GARÇONS x Nike Blazer Low – Release Date: Summer 2013
Operating with their internal brand moniker in mind, this collaborative variations of the Nike Blazer Low was smooth and sublet in its noir sentiment. Imposing black suede engulfed the upper alongside a tonal Swoosh and matching leather laces. This wasn’t the most sought after CDG x Nike collab, but an underrated gem that few managed to got their hands on.
